Katie's Travel AGency

Katie's Travel Agency

A castle on a rocky cliff among pines, with mountains behind at sunset

Private & Custom Itineraries in Europe

Your hotels booked, your trains reserved, your route worked out. Then the days are entirely yours. No group, no fixed departure, no one counting heads.

The most requested way to see Europe

More people ask me for this than anything else, and it makes sense. They want the freedom to sit in a square for two hours if the square is good. They don’t want to work out which regional train connects to which, or whether the hotel they booked is anywhere near the station.

That’s exactly what these trips are for. I plan the route with you, book the hotels in the right towns, reserve the trains or arrange the car, and you get an annotated map before you go. Then the days are yours.

You’re on your own all day, but never on your own if something goes wrong.

What surprises people is how much support sits behind it. Every itinerary here has a 24/7 helpline, and if you miss a connection, someone rebooks you onto the next train.

Katie Black, travel advisor at Katie’s Travel AgencyKatie

Not all self-guided trips work the same way

“Self-guided” can mean three quite different things.

Set self-drive packages

A set route with daily departures. Hotels, car and route are already put together. The least work, and the easiest to compare on price.

Rail and ferry packages

Same idea, no car. Every ticket is booked ahead with seats together, including the scenic trains and overnight ferries.

Fully independent trips

No set route. You tell me where you want to go and for how long, and we build it together, hotel by hotel.

What’s included differs by trip, so I’ll tell you exactly what yours covers before you book.

Find Your Trip

Narrow village street in Tuscany with geraniums in window boxes and shuttered stone houses
Katie’s Pickfor 1st timers7 days
Self-driveItaly

Flavors of Italy: Rome & Tuscany

Rome, then a car through the Tuscan hill towns, with three cooking sessions built in.

See the day by day
The Cliffs of Moher dropping to the Atlantic, with sea stacks below the green clifftop
10 days
Self-driveIreland

Classic Ireland

A full loop of north and south that never doubles back.

See the day by day
Red Swiss train crossing a tall stone viaduct in an alpine valley
Katie’s Pick10 days
By trainSwitzerland

Best of Switzerland by Train

The Glacier Express and Bernina Express in one loop, seats reserved together.

See the day by day
The painted townhouses and moored wooden boats of Nyhavn in Copenhagen
10 days
Train & ferry4 countries

Four Nordic Capitals by Train & Cruise

Four capitals with no flights between them, and two nights at sea.

See the day by day
European city at dusk with bridges and illuminated historic buildings along a river
Katie’s Pickfor repeat visitors21 days
By train5 countries

Panoramic Train Journey across Europe

Three weeks, five countries, every train and hotel booked in order.

See the day by day
Icebergs drifting on the still water of a glacier lagoon under a pale sky
8 days
Self-driveIceland

Iceland’s Ring Road in Winter

The full circle of the island in northern lights season.

See the day by day
Like a Tour’s Route, but Not the Group?If a guided tour’s route looks perfect but a coach and a set schedule put you off, the route isn’t the problem. We can rebuild it.
Ask Me to Rebuild a Route →

More Private & Independent Trips

Every one of these can be built around your dates, your pace and the places you want most. Tap a trip to see it on its region page.

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.”

Mark Twain

The Itineraries, Day by Day

Tuscan hills and vineyards
7Days · Self-drive

Flavors of Italy: Rome & Tuscany

Italy

RomeOrvietoVal d’OrciaSienaFlorence
  • A pizza and gelato class in Rome
  • The Val d’Orcia hill towns
  • A Chianti winery afternoon
Private & CustomMediterraneanFood & Wine

Two nights in Rome before you pick up the car, then north into the hill towns. Three cooking sessions are built in: pizza and gelato in Rome, tagliatelle in Florence, and a day in the Chianti vineyards. The food is the itinerary rather than something you hope to stumble into.

See the day by day
  1. Day 1RomePrivate transfer in from the airport. The Spanish Steps, a coin in the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, then across the river to Trastevere for cacio e pepe. Evening pizza and gelato cooking class with a local pizzaiolo.
  2. Day 2RomeStart at the Palatine Hill, where the queues are shorter, and look down over the Roman Forum before the Colosseum. One ticket covers all three. The Pantheon in the afternoon, the Vatican if it appeals.
  3. Day 3Rome to TuscanyCollect the car. Stop at Orvieto, perched on its volcanic cliff, for the cathedral and a long lunch of wild boar and dove. Then into Tuscany proper: vines, olive groves, medieval towers on the hilltops. 125 miles.
  4. Day 4Val d’OrciaThe postcard hills, and they really do look like that. Montepulciano and its wine cellars, Pienza for pecorino, Montalcino if there’s time. Stop at a vineyard and let them pour you their best. 70 miles.
  5. Day 5Siena and FlorenceSiena’s shell-shaped Piazza del Campo and a plate of pici. On to Florence, drop the car, and learn to make tagliatelle and ravioli by hand. Evening on the Ponte Vecchio as the light goes gold.
  6. Day 6FlorenceBrunelleschi’s dome, the Uffizi for Botticelli, the Accademia for the David. Then out to Chianti for an afternoon of three boutique wineries, olive oil and a Tuscan lunch.
  7. Day 7DepartureA last wander, an espresso standing at the bar, and a private transfer to Florence airport.
Route
Route map of central Italy: Rome north through Orvieto and Siena to Florence

What’s included

  • Six nights with daily breakfast, in 3-star guesthouses or 4-star hotels
  • Rental car for three days with GPS, unlimited mileage, insurance and a second driver
  • Both cooking classes and the Chianti wine and food tour
  • Private airport transfers at both ends
  • A personal itinerary, annotated maps and a 24/7 helpline

US, Canadian and Australian drivers need an International Driving Permit. Your itinerary flags every limited-traffic zone on the route, which is the thing that catches most people out in Italy.

Green Irish valleys under a dramatic sky
10Days · Self-drive

Classic Ireland

Ireland & Northern Ireland

DublinBelfastAntrim CoastGalwayKillarneyKilkenny
  • The Giant’s Causeway
  • The Cliffs of Moher
  • The Ring of Kerry
Private & CustomWestern Europe

A full loop that never doubles back, with two nights each in Belfast and Killarney so the driving days are broken up. It takes in both the north and the south, which the shorter Ireland itineraries have to choose between.

See the day by day
  1. Day 1DublinSettle in. Temple Bar, the Guinness Storehouse, and the Book of Kells at Trinity College.
  2. Day 2Dublin to BelfastCollect the car. Malahide Castle, then Newgrange, a UNESCO site older than the pyramids, and Monasterboice, before crossing into Northern Ireland. 121 miles.
  3. Day 3BelfastTitanic Belfast, built where she was built. The Peace Walls murals, City Hall, and the Ulster Folk Museum.
  4. Day 4The Antrim CoastThe Dark Hedges, the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge ninety-eight feet above the water, the Giant’s Causeway, Bushmills, and Dunluce Castle on its cliff. 160 miles.
  5. Day 5Connemara to GalwayBen Bulben, Westport, Killary Harbour (Ireland’s only fjord), Kylemore Abbey, and the Sky Road at Clifden. 209 miles.
  6. Day 6The Burren and the CliffsDunguaire Castle, the limestone pavements of the Burren, the Cliffs of Moher, and Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. 167 miles.
  7. Day 7The Ring of KerryThe hundred-mile drive: tree ferns at Kells Bay, the stone forts at Caherdaniel and Staigue, Derrynane Bay and Torc Waterfall. A boat to the Skellig Islands if the sea allows. 123 miles.
  8. Day 8Blarney to KilkennyBlarney Castle and the stone, Cork city, the Rock of Cashel, and a night in medieval Kilkenny. 150 miles.
  9. Day 9The Wicklow MountainsGlendalough’s monastic valley, Powerscourt House and Ireland’s highest waterfall, then back into Dublin. Around 90 miles.
  10. Day 10DepartureHome from Dublin.
Route
Route map of Ireland looping from Dublin north to Belfast, west to Galway, south to Killarney and back through Kilkenny

What’s included

  • Nine nights with daily breakfast, in 3-star country hotels and guesthouses, or 4-star and boutique
  • Rental car for eight days with unlimited mileage, insurance and a second driver
  • A welcome bag with your personal itinerary and a hand-annotated map
  • An Ireland travel guide and a 24/7 helpline

You’ll be driving on the left, so I’d strongly recommend paying up for an automatic. Rental is from age 21; drivers over 75 need letters from a doctor and insurer, and over 80 is case by case.

Train through green mountains above an alpine village
10Days · By train

Best of Switzerland by Train

Switzerland, with a day into Italy

ZurichZermattSt MoritzLuganoLucerneZurich
  • The Glacier Express
  • The Bernina Express into Italy
  • First class where available

The Glacier Express and the Bernina Express in one loop, with every ticket booked and seats reserved together before you arrive. No car, no flights inside the country, and nine nights in six towns.

See the day by day
  1. Day 1ZurichArrive and walk it off. The Grossmünster and Fraumünster, Lindenhof Hill for the view over the rooftops, and the lake promenade.
  2. Day 2Zurich to Lake GenevaA three-hour train through vineyards to Montreux on the Swiss Riviera. Château de Chillon juts into the lake; Freddie Mercury stands on the shoreline.
  3. Day 3On to ZermattEast through the sun-drenched Rhône Valley to Zermatt, a car-free chalet village directly beneath the Matterhorn. Fondue, earned.
  4. Day 4ZermattThe cogwheel railway up to Gornergrat at nearly ten thousand feet, or the gondola to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, where you can see fourteen glaciers across three countries.
  5. Day 5The Glacier ExpressOne of the world’s great train rides. Over the Oberalp Pass at 6,669 feet, past the Rhine Gorge, the Swiss Grand Canyon, and along the Albula Line with its six viaducts, to St Moritz.
  6. Day 6St MoritzThe lake, the sixteenth-century leaning tower, and the funicular up to Muottas Muragl, where the last train down runs late enough for the sunset.
  7. Day 7The Bernina ExpressA UNESCO-listed railway south over a spiral viaduct into Italy at Tirano, then along the shores of Lake Como to Lugano, where Switzerland starts speaking Italian.
  8. Day 8LuganoThe Via Nassa, the Piazza della Riforma, the lake. Or take the train back over the border to Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio for the day.
  9. Day 9LucerneNorth on a scenic line to Lucerne. The Chapel Bridge, the Lion Monument, and Mount Pilatus by the world’s steepest cog railway.
  10. Day 10DepartureBack to Zurich and home.
Route
Rail route map of Switzerland: Zurich, Montreux, Zermatt, St Moritz, Lugano and Lucerne

What’s included

  • Nine nights with daily breakfast, in 3-star or 4-star and boutique hotels
  • All six train journeys including the Glacier Express and Bernina Express, first class where available, seats reserved together
  • A Switzerland map, personal itinerary, travel guide and 24/7 helpline

The Gornergrat railway and the Matterhorn cable car are optional extras rather than included, so budget for the ones you want. There’s also a fourteen-day version that goes further into Italy.

Gothic church spires above a Nordic riverfront
10Days · Train & ferry

Four Nordic Capitals by Train & Cruise

Finland, Sweden, Denmark & Norway

HelsinkiStockholmCopenhagenOslo
  • Two overnight ferries
  • The train from Stockholm to Copenhagen
  • No flights between countries

Four countries with no flights between them. Two of the nights are spent on overnight ferries: Helsinki to Stockholm across the Baltic, and Copenhagen to Oslo up the Kattegat. You go to sleep in one capital and wake up approaching the next.

See the day by day
  1. Day 1HelsinkiSenate Square and the Uspenski Cathedral, where you can read the influence of every neighbor Finland has. The nineteenth-century Old Market Hall for lunch.
  2. Day 2Across the BalticA morning in a UNESCO City of Design: the Sibelius Monument, Finlandia Hall, the Parliament building. Then aboard the overnight cruise to Sweden, in a cabin with a window.
  3. Day 3Into StockholmBreakfast on deck as the ship threads the Stockholm archipelago. Afternoon on foot: Drottninggatan for shopping, Östermalm for the architecture.
  4. Day 4StockholmGamla Stan, the old town, with the Royal Palace and cobbled lanes. Then the short ferry to Djurgården for the ABBA Museum, the Skansen open-air museum and Gröna Lund.
  5. Day 5Train to CopenhagenSouth by rail into Denmark. An evening walk around Nyhavn, the old harbor lined with colored houses, and a smørrebrød at one of them.
  6. Day 6CopenhagenAmalienborg and Christiansborg palaces, the Little Mermaid on the waterfront, Strøget for shopping and Torvehallerne for lunch. Tivoli Gardens after dark.
  7. Day 7North to NorwayThe Round Tower observatory, the Church of Our Saviour, Rosenborg Castle. Then the afternoon ferry up the Kattegat, with dinner and the sunset from the deck.
  8. Day 8OsloDocking after breakfast. Karl Johans gate through the middle of the city, the Aker Brygge marina, and the Opera House you can walk up.
  9. Day 9OsloVigeland Sculpture Park, the Akershus fortress, the Fram Museum with its polar exploration ship, and the Munch Museum.
  10. Day 10DepartureHome from Oslo.
Route
Route map from Helsinki across the Baltic to Stockholm, by train to Copenhagen and by sea to Oslo

What’s included

  • Seven hotel nights plus two nights in private ensuite cabins on the ferries
  • Daily breakfast, including both mornings at sea
  • The Stockholm to Copenhagen train
  • Personal itinerary, map, Scandinavia travel guide and a 24/7 helpline

The Stockholm to Copenhagen leg can be flown instead of trained if you’d rather have the day back, and there’s a first-class rail upgrade. Shorter and longer versions exist, including a fourteen-day one built around a Norwegian fjord cruise.

Train platform under a glass and steel station roof
21Days · By train

Panoramic Train Journey across Europe

Switzerland, Italy, Austria, Czechia & Germany

ZurichZermattSt MoritzMilanSalzburgViennaPragueBerlin
  • The Glacier, Bernina and GoldenPass trains
  • Five countries in three weeks
  • No group and no guide

Three weeks, five countries, no group and no guide, because every train is booked, every hotel is reserved, and the order is worked out before you land. This is the itinerary I point to when someone says independent travel across Europe sounds like too much work.

See the day by day
  1. Day 1ZurichArrive. The Grossmünster and Fraumünster, Lindenhof Hill, and a walk along the lake.
  2. Day 2InterlakenTwo and a half hours by train into the mountains. The Harder Kulm funicular to a platform facing the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau.
  3. Day 3InterlakenA boat across Lake Brienz to Giessbach Falls and Europe’s oldest funicular, or the St Beatus caves. Or spend the day going up to the Jungfraujoch.
  4. Day 4The GoldenPass ExpressThree hours past Lake Thun and down the Simmen Valley to Montreux on Lake Geneva, and the Château de Chillon.
  5. Day 5ZermattEast through the Rhône Valley’s vineyards. The Matterhorn appears on the approach.
  6. Day 6ZermattGornergrat by cogwheel railway at nearly ten thousand feet, or the gondola to fourteen glaciers in three countries.
  7. Day 7The Glacier ExpressOver the Oberalp Pass at 6,669 feet, past the Rhine Gorge and the Albula viaducts, to St Moritz.
  8. Day 8St MoritzThe lake, and the funicular up to Muottas Muragl for the long view.
  9. Day 9The Bernina ExpressUNESCO-listed, over a spiral viaduct into Italy, then past Lake Como to Lugano.
  10. Day 10Lugano or Lake ComoThe town center and the lakeshore, or back across for Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio.
  11. Day 11MilanSouth through mountain tunnels into Lombardy. The Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and Da Vinci’s Last Supper if you book ahead.
  12. Day 12MilanSforzesco Castle, the Pinacoteca di Brera, La Scala and the Royal Palace.
  13. Day 13InnsbruckSix hours through the Dolomites into Austria. The Golden Roof, and a cable car up the Nordkette.
  14. Day 14SalzburgTwo hours through the Alps. The Altstadt on foot, and Mozart’s birthplace on Getreidegasse.
  15. Day 15SalzburgThe Hohensalzburg fortress above the city, and the Mirabell Palace gardens where they filmed Do-Re-Mi.
  16. Day 16ViennaTwo and a half hours to the capital. The State Opera, City Hall, and a schnitzel worth the trip.
  17. Day 17ViennaThe Ringstrasse, St Stephen’s Cathedral, and Schönbrunn’s fourteen hundred rooms. The Hofburg and the Belvedere if you have the stamina.
  18. Day 18PragueInto Czechia. The Old Town and its twelfth-century square, Wenceslas Square and the National Museum.
  19. Day 19PragueThe largest castle complex in the world, Charles Bridge, the oldest working astronomical clock, and the Jewish Quarter.
  20. Day 20BerlinFour hours north. The Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the East Side Gallery along the longest surviving stretch of the Wall, and Museum Island.
  21. Day 21DepartureA last morning in Berlin, then home.
Route
Rail route map from Switzerland through northern Italy, Austria and Czechia to Berlin

What’s included

  • Twenty nights with daily breakfast, in 3-star or 4-star and boutique hotels
  • Every train ticket, first class where available, seats reserved together
  • The Glacier Express, Bernina Express and GoldenPass Express
  • Region maps, a personal itinerary, travel guides and a 24/7 helpline

Extra nights can be added in any city on the route, which is worth doing in Vienna or Prague. Carbon offsetting is included in the package.

Hraunfossar waterfall in winter, Iceland
8Days · Self-drive

Iceland’s Ring Road in Winter

Iceland

ReykjavíkVíkHöfnMývatnAkureyriReykjavík
  • Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach
  • The lava fields at Lake Mývatn
  • Northern lights in season

The full circle of the island in the season when the daylight is short and the northern lights are out. Waterfalls half frozen, icebergs on a black beach, and a lava field at Lake Mývatn that looks like another planet. Having your own car is what makes aurora hunting work: you go when the sky clears, not when a coach is scheduled.

See the day by day
  1. Day 1ReykjavíkAirport transfer straight into the city. Rainbow Street up to the Hallgrímskirkja church, the boutiques along Laugavegur, then the Sun Voyager sculpture and Harpa Concert Hall on the waterfront. No car yet, since Reykjavík walks easily.
  2. Day 2The Golden Circle to VíkCollect the car and drive the Golden Circle: Þingvellir National Park, the Strokkur geyser and two-tiered Gullfoss. Then south to Seljalandsfoss and the 200-foot Skógafoss, ending at Vík and its hilltop church. About 200 miles.
  3. Day 3Glaciers and iceberg lagoonsReynisfjara black sand beach and the Dyrhólaey rock arch, then into Vatnajökull National Park and the Skaftafell area. Fjallsárlón and Jökulsárlón glacier lagoons, and Diamond Beach, where ice sits on black sand. Night near Höfn. About 170 miles.
  4. Day 4The EastfjordsNarrow fjords, steep mountainsides and small fishing villages. Egilsstaðir is the main town, beside the Lagarfljót river and its legendary monster, with Hallormsstaðaskógur forest nearby. About 160 miles.
  5. Day 5North to Lake MývatnA detour to Stuðlagil canyon and its basalt walls, then Dettifoss, one of Europe’s most powerful waterfalls, the steaming Námaskarð pass, and Lake Mývatn with the Dimmuborgir lava field and the Skútustaðagígar pseudo-craters. About 170 miles.
  6. Day 6Akureyri and the northMore of Mývatn in the morning, then Goðafoss, the Waterfall of the Gods. On to Akureyri, the capital of the north, and into Skagafjörður, known for its Icelandic horses. About 140 miles.
  7. Day 7West IcelandA short hike to the rim of the Grábrók crater, the Deildartunguhver hot spring, and water running out of old lava at Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. The Settlement Centre at Borgarnes on the way back to Reykjavík. About 240 miles.
  8. Day 8DepartureA last morning in the city, or a soak at the Sky Lagoon or Blue Lagoon if the flight is late. Shared transfer to Keflavík.
Route
Route map of the Icelandic Ring Road, a full loop from Reykjavík

What’s included

  • Seven nights of hand-picked hotels and guesthouses, with breakfast daily
  • Airport transfers both ways, and six days of car rental with unlimited mileage and in-car Wi-Fi
  • A personal itinerary, a hand-marked map and a driving-in-Iceland guide
  • A 24/7 helpline, and an optional meeting with your travel consultant on arrival

Worth being straight about this one. Winter driving in Iceland can mean snowstorms, ice, strong wind and only four or five hours of daylight around Christmas. A 4×4 is strongly recommended, and if you have never driven on snow I would point you to the guided or privately guided version of the same route instead. Northern lights are never guaranteed.

Luxury, Castle & Heritage Trips

Private trips at the top end: castle and manor stays, all-private guiding, and trips built around your family history.

Ivy-covered medieval ruin on a grassy hill

Scottish Icons

Built around you

Flexible self-drive

Private & CustomWestern Europe

The Isle of Skye, St Andrews, Loch Ness and Edinburgh at your own pace, with castles, manors and B&Bs booked ahead.

Ask me about this trip →
White church bell tower above the Aegean on Santorini

Highlights of Greece

9 days · Athens, Mykonos & Santorini

Luxury, all private

Private & CustomMediterraneanFood & Wine

Five-star hotels and private guides throughout: a cooking class in Athens, a day sailing off Mykonos, Santorini’s wineries, and dinner in a local Athens home.

Ask me about this trip →

From Clients Who Traveled Independently

★★★★★

“We provided Katie with ideas of places we wanted to see and the days we could take our trip to Norway and Germany. She did a fabulous job organizing our timeline, finding great hotel, all transportation (flights and a boat excursion from Trondheim to Bergen, Norway), and finding excellent tours. Everything progressed like clockwork on our trip and no hitches whatsoever. This is the second time we have used her services and will continue to utilize Katie for all of our future travel plans. She’s a great communicator and we are 110% satisfied!”

Lesli J.
Norway & Germany
★★★★★

“I will never go on vacation again without Katie’s help! As someone who has traveled in the states and to other countries multiple times, working with Katie was by far the best experience. I was especially grateful of her when my trip to Iceland had to be postponed for 2 years because of COVID. I never had to lift a finger, she figured out all the details for me. She responded quickly to all questions and wants to make sure you have the best vacation possible.”

Mariah P.
Iceland

Questions About Traveling Independently

Is self-guided the same as doing it all myself?

No, and that’s the point. Your hotels are booked, your train tickets or rental car are arranged, the route is planned in a sensible order, and you arrive to a personal itinerary and an annotated map. What you don’t have is a guide telling you when to be back on the bus.

What happens if something goes wrong?

Every itinerary here comes with a 24/7 helpline, and someone answers it. Miss a train connection and they’ll rebook you onto the next service. That’s the part people don’t expect, and it’s the reason I sell these rather than piecing trips together from scratch.

Do I have to follow the itinerary exactly?

Only the hotels and any pre-booked activities are fixed. Everything else is a recommendation, so if you want to spend the whole morning in one town and skip the next, nothing breaks.

Can I add days somewhere?

Yes, and I usually suggest it. An extra two nights at the start or end (or in the middle) changes the feel of a trip considerably. Long itineraries especially benefit from a spare day in the bigger cities.

I don’t want to drive in Europe. Can I still do this?

Easily. Four of the six itineraries above either move by train or only need a car for part of the trip. Europe’s rail network is very good, and on a rail itinerary your tickets are booked with seats reserved together before you arrive.

What does it cost to work with you?

For custom trips, my planning fee starts at $50 per person for a single city, and starts at $100 per person per city for a multi-city trip. Other trips vary, and I’ll tell you the exact fee before we start. My How It Works guide walks you through exactly how I plan your trip, step by step.

Let’s Plan Your Trip, Your Way

Tell me where you’d go and how long you have. I’ll take it from there.

See exactly what it’s like to work with me →

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